The tweeds are woven by the Isle of Mull Weavers at Ardalanish Organic Farm in Scotland. Owners, Aeneas and Minty Mackay aim to sustain and develop the traditional art of weaving of the Hebrides and at the same time pioneer organic practices. Their organic tweeds were the first Soil Association Certified wool textiles in the UK and won best Organic Textile Product in 2007. These are fabrics which last a lifetime. In addition, the tweeds naturally resist water and dirt so they are very low-impact to maintain. The tweeds are produced in small batches and the wool changes shade from year to year. You can order a swatch card for the latest tweeds.
There is a choice of ethical Hebridean and organic, both in different weaves. New tweeds will become available over time as the wool is different every year, the production runs are small. There may be slight variations on each garment. In fact, over the years the tweeds naturally age with dignity, unlike manufactured textiles,which tend to deteriorate. These are fabrics which last a lifetime. In addition, these tweeds naturally resist water and dirt and hence are low impact to maintain.
These tweeds are a combination of undyed browns and black fleece of the Ardalanish Hebridean sheep with naturals whites and fawns from Shetland, Manx and Moorit sheep, all from organic growers. The processing and finishing involves fewer chemicals and this gives a fine lustre to the cloth.
This collection is sourced from the black Hebridean sheep, which comes out a rich chocolate brown with some oyster grey as well. The Hebriean sheep is indigenous to the Highlands and hence is more in harmony with the land; it thrives without depleting the soil and the balance of the eco-system is maintained. The wool is sourced from a combination of organic farms and small-holders who may not yet be certified. Its ethical status is due to the fair price paid for the fleece, and so this has generated a market where it had died out due to low price for wool. It’s wonderful to be keeping these native breeds productive and the traditional skills alive.
There is a new blue herringbone & cream tweed. The blue is dyed in woad, an natural English-grown dye which was the only blue dye in Europe until the 16th century when indigo arrived from the east. This tweed is also Soil Association certified organic.
For the main lining Eloise Grey uses Hand loom Indian cotton which is fair trade and organic. The colour is a natural dye. A cotton lining is not only a natural fibre but it is also very strong.
The sleeve lining needs to be made from a slippery fabric in order to allow arms to slip into the sleeve easily. The
sleeve lining on Eloise Grey's coats are from a high quality Italian acetate in a matching colour to the slate blue of the main lining. This is not organic but synthetic, though it is one of the more environmentally friendly synthetic fabrics as it is made from renewable sources: reforested trees. It is biodegradable.
The price differences are based on factors such as whether the fabric is organic (which is more expensive to produce) or rarity. The dyed woad is also rather prized and meticulously produced and this is also reflected in the cost.
© Eloise Grey 2007-8